Scandinavian Snowflake Knit-Pattern, 6 ft. Corner Christmas Village Tree Stand CNC Files and Assembly Plans (3 Shelves)

This project shares the corner stand family's common skeleton: a center panel that sits into the room corner, and two side panels that open out from it, parallel to the walls. Each of the three shelves is a pie-slice (quarter-circle) filling the 90° angle between the two side panels.

What sets this variant apart is a Scandinavian knit pattern that covers the side panels edge to edge — the kind of Fair-Isle banding you'd recognize from a Christmas sweater, translated into wood. The pattern is built from horizontal bands: repeating zigzag stripes, with rows of small six-pointed snowflakes, stylized firs, diamonds, and dots arranged between them. I left plain, pattern-free bands between the rows of motifs — these are where the pattern breathes and the eye gets a rest. The motifs are cut all the way through the panel (through-cut), so they're openings. In the family's dense geometric-pattern member, the pattern covers the panel surface edge to edge in one tightly woven texture; here, plain wood bands remain between the motif bands — the pattern reads more clearly, and less of the panel is cut away.

I designed this model to go without lighting — by day or under room light, the panel simply reads as a quiet textured surface with the wall showing faintly through behind the cut lines. Because the motifs are cut all the way through the panel, light passes through this cut pattern repeating along the bands, but I didn't design this variant to be backlit: in the family, only the dense geometric-pattern variant offers the acrylic backlighting option. I finish this stand with thin-wire LED lights run across the front of the panel (see the Lighting section below).

Unlike the two side panels, the center panel carries a row of decorative holes for hanging ornaments and is cut with a slight 3° closing angle toward the back — a small engineering detail that lets the whole structure sit flush into the corner.

Finished, the reference dimensions are 54" (137 cm) wide × 71" (180 cm) tall — that's the size stated on the Etsy listing, based on the styled look in the photos with garland and a tree topper. The panels' and shelves' own net dimensions are given to scale in the CNC file.

This is a corner design: the structure is built to sit into a 90° room corner. The center panel sits into the corner itself, and the two side panels open outward, parallel to the two walls.

It has fewer tiers than my circular stand (3 versus 6), but each shelf runs deeper — a better fit if you'd rather display fewer, larger village pieces.

You don't just have to take my word for these dimensions — the guide you're buying shows every one of them measured out directly on the design's own drawings.

3 SVG, DWG, and DXF format CNC files: all three carry the same Scandinavian knit pattern and the same cut plan — I prepared them in three formats purely for compatibility with different software. You don't need paid software to open them: LibreCAD (free, open-source) and QCAD (free community edition) both run on Windows and Mac. If you want a Windows-only option, Autodesk's own free viewer DWG TrueView is available. That said, if you're having it CNC-cut, you don't need to open the file yourself — just hand it off to whoever's doing the cutting.

1 PDF format build guide: a 10-page guide, explained through drawings — a parts diagram, center-panel dimension detail, shelf and side-panel assembly steps, an optional lighting detail, and the full materials list.

I deliberately simplified this in the guide's own drawings — to keep the step-by-step instructions from getting cluttered, the technical drawings show the side panels plain, with no motif. But the SVG, DXF, and DWG files you receive already carry the pattern made up of snowflakes, firs, and zigzag bands; the shelf-holder slot positions and dimensions are identical to the guide.

This is one of 5 variants in the corner stand family. They all share the same skeleton — the only difference between them is the pattern cut into the side panels and whether lighting is built in.

This is an indoor project, so what matters is appearance, weight, and how cleanly the cut edges come out.

I recommend birch plywood — the pattern is made up of fine zigzag cut lines and small motifs with fine arms, and a lower-quality, void-filled panel puts those fine sections at greater risk of chipping.

• Baltic birch plywood — every ply is birch with no internal voids. Ask for grade B/BB or BB/BB. The safest choice.
• Birch-faced hardwood plywood — only the outer face is birch veneer. Fine, but the inner plies show a different color on the cut edge.

Avoid: cheap construction-grade plywood (CDX / "sheathing"). The internal voids can cause breakage along the zigzag stripes' fine sections and the small motifs' arms.

Every wooden part comes from a single thickness: 19/32" (about 15 mm). The panel referenced on the guide's materials page is this thickness, and 2 sheets of 4×8 ft (122 × 244 cm) panel is enough in total.

Main parts: the center panel (3° angled, with decorative holes), two side panels (with the Scandinavian knit pattern cut in), three pie-slice shelves, and the center/side holders that connect the shelves to the panels. All cut dimensions and quantities are given to scale in the CNC file.

This model needs no extra lighting material (acrylic panel, special screws) — the cut list is wood parts only; if you want to light the stand, thin-wire LED lights wrapped around the front are enough (see the Lighting section below). Every dimension is also marked directly on that part's own cutting diagram in the guide.

Screws: per the guide's materials list, you'll need 36 #8 × 1" (2.5 cm) and 45 #8 × 2" (5 cm) flat-head wood screws. Make sure they're flat head.

Glue: not required, but I recommend it, particularly at the panel-to-holder joints. Ordinary wood glue (PVA) is plenty. If you're planning to take it apart at the end of the season, skip glue on the holder joints.

This is an indoor project. Don't use wall paint — it stays soft on a furniture surface and marks and stains easily.

Natural wood look: if you used birch plywood, you can skip paint entirely — the pattern's cut edges look especially clean against natural wood. Water-based polyurethane varnish is the right call on light-colored wood.

If you're painting, reaching the zigzag stripes' turns and the small motifs' fine arms with a brush gives more controlled results than a roller; a light spray coat is another option.

For a painted finish: a shellac-based primer (e.g. Zinsser B-I-N), then a water-based acrylic furniture paint (trim & cabinet paint), in satin or semi-gloss.

The pattern is made up of zigzag stripes repeating in horizontal bands, with rows of small motifs arranged between them — all with fine, sharp-angled arms. Reproducing these by hand with a scroll saw is possible: you might cut a single snowflake skillfully enough, but the hard part is repeating that same motif at the same size all the way along the row. The first thing to break down in hand-cutting is the band's regular repetition, and the eye catches that break instantly in motifs sitting side by side. CNC or laser cutting is by far the more practical route on this variant, both for speed and for keeping the bands' pattern and the motifs' symmetry intact.

Hand the DWG, DXF, or SVG file straight to a CNC or laser shop. I'd recommend telling them the motifs need to be cut all the way through (through-cut) — the file is already set up that way, but stating it clearly avoids any mix-up.

Start assembly with the center panel. Unlike the two side panels, it's wider and carries decorative holes for hanging ornaments, and it's cut with a slight 3° closing angle so it seats flush into the corner.

Before going further, screw the center holders that will carry all three shelves onto the panel using 1" (2.5 cm) screws — leaving a 19/32" (15 mm) gap at the top of the slots, equal to the shelf thickness.

The spacing between the three holders is fixed at 1-15/16" (5 cm). Follow the guide's dimension drawing and all three land at the right height, level and aligned. Every dimension and gap here is also marked visually on the guide's own step page.

Fasten the shelves from underneath onto the center holders with 2" (5 cm) screws — the three shelves' starting points should line up.

Next, fit the side holders underneath each shelf — 1-3/16" (3 cm) in from the shelf's starting point, again with 2" screws.

As the final step, slide the two side panels over the already-mounted side holders and screw them in from the outside with 1" (2.5 cm) screws. Take care while driving these screws — miss a holder and you'll open an unnecessary hole in the side panel. Once this step is done, the structure stands on its own as a three-panel corner frame. These dimensions are also marked on the guide's own page, right on the part itself.

Once cutting is done, sand every part: 80-120 grit on the edges and rough spots, finishing with 150-220 grit. On the zigzag stripes' sharp turns and the small motifs' corners, use a small hand sander instead of a random orbital sander — removing material at a fine tip can distort the motif's shape.

Sanding and painting before assembly, while the parts are still separate, makes the job significantly easier.