Plain-Panel, 6 ft. Corner Christmas Village Tree Stand CNC Files and Assembly Plans (3 Shelves)

This project shares the corner stand family's common skeleton: a center panel that sits into the room corner, and two side panels that open out from it, parallel to the walls. Each of the three shelves is a pie-slice (quarter-circle) filling the 90° angle between the two side panels.

This is the simplest variant in the family: no pattern and no lighting on the side panels, just a clean, plainly cut wood surface. Where the other 4 members of the family have a pine tree, snowflakes, or a dense geometric pattern cut into their side panels, this one leaves the panel surface completely uninterrupted. That also makes it the fastest to produce and the most forgiving to cut — there's no fine motif detail that could break.

This simplicity is deliberate: if you want your village houses, ornaments, or your own added lights and garland to be the focal point, a quiet backdrop does the work. As shown in the reference photos, this model suits a more classic look, with thin-wire LED lights wrapped around the front.

Unlike the two side panels, the center panel carries a row of decorative holes for hanging ornaments and is cut with a slight 3° closing angle toward the back — a small engineering detail that lets the whole structure sit flush into the corner.

Finished, the reference dimensions are 54" (137 cm) wide × 71" (180 cm) tall — that's the size stated on the Etsy listing, based on the styled look in the photos with garland and a tree topper. The panels' and shelves' own net dimensions are given to scale in the CNC file.

This is a corner design: the structure is built to sit into a 90° room corner. The center panel sits into the corner itself, and the two side panels open outward, parallel to the two walls.

It has fewer tiers than my circular stand (3 versus 6), but each shelf runs deeper — a better fit if you'd rather display fewer, larger village pieces.

You don't just have to take my word for these dimensions — the guide you're buying shows every one of them measured out directly on the design's own drawings.

3 SVG, DWG, and DXF format CNC files: all three carry the same cut plan — I prepared them in three formats purely for compatibility with different software. You don't need paid software to open them: LibreCAD (free, open-source) and QCAD (free community edition) both run on Windows and Mac. If you want a Windows-only option, Autodesk's own free viewer DWG TrueView is available. That said, if you're having it CNC-cut, you don't need to open the file yourself — just hand it off to whoever's doing the cutting.

1 PDF format build guide: a 10-page guide, explained through drawings — a parts diagram, center-panel dimension detail, shelf and side-panel assembly steps, and the full materials list. The guide prints cleanly at either A4 or A3.

This is one of 5 variants in the corner stand family. They all share the same skeleton — the only difference between them is the pattern cut into the side panels and whether lighting is built in. This is the one plain, unlit model.

This is an indoor project, so what matters is appearance, weight, and how cleanly the cut edges come out.

I recommend birch plywood. Its face is smooth and its plies are tight, so cut edges come out clean — on this variant, with the panels left completely plain, the wood's own grain stands out more than usual.

• Baltic birch plywood — every ply is birch with no internal voids. Ask for grade B/BB or BB/BB. The best choice, especially if you're leaving it natural.
• Birch-faced hardwood plywood — only the outer face is birch veneer. Fine, but the inner plies show a different color on the cut edge; on a plain panel that edge is visible from every angle, so this deserves a bit more attention.

MDF works too — a sensible choice if you're painting everything anyway; standard (raw) MDF is fine here. Avoid: cheap construction-grade plywood (CDX / "sheathing") — with the panel left plain, every void in the inner plies is visible to the naked eye on the cut edge.

Every wooden part comes from a single thickness: 19/32" (about 15 mm). The panel referenced on the guide's materials page is this thickness, and 2 sheets of 4×8 ft (122 × 244 cm) panel is enough in total.

Main parts: the center panel (3° angled, with decorative holes), two plain side panels, three pie-slice shelves, and the center/side holders that connect the shelves to the panels. All cut dimensions and quantities are given to scale in the CNC file.

This model needs no extra lighting material (acrylic panel, special screws) — it's the shortest cut and shopping list in the family. Every dimension is also marked directly on that part's own cutting diagram in the guide — you're never left translating a number out of a paragraph onto the panel; you read it straight off the drawing.

Screws: per the guide's materials list, you'll need 36 #8 × 1" (2.5 cm) and 45 #8 × 2" (5 cm) flat-head wood screws. Make sure they're flat head — at some points you'll need to countersink the head into the panel.

Glue: not required, but I recommend it, particularly at the panel-to-holder joints. Ordinary wood glue (PVA) is plenty. If you're planning to take it apart at the end of the season, skip glue on the holder joints — a glued joint can't be separated without damage.

This is an indoor project, so there's no need for exterior paint. Don't use wall paint — it stays soft on a furniture surface and marks and stains easily.

Natural wood look: if you used birch plywood, you can skip paint entirely. Water-based polyurethane varnish is the right call on light-colored wood; I don't recommend a solvent-based varnish, since it ambers over time. As an alternative, a hardwax oil (e.g. Osmo Polyx) gives a natural, matte finish.

For a painted finish: a shellac-based primer (e.g. Zinsser B-I-N) — especially important with MDF, since its cut edges are spongy and drink up paint — then a water-based acrylic furniture paint (trim & cabinet paint), in satin or semi-gloss. White and cream tones are a common choice here since they push the village houses forward visually.

This is the easiest-to-produce variant in the family. With no motif on the side panels, cutting is just a matter of following the panel outlines and the shelf/holder shapes.

1. CNC / laser cutting — hand the DWG, DXF, or SVG file straight to a CNC shop. Fastest and most accurate.
2. Cutting by hand with a jigsaw — a realistic option here, since the panel outlines are mostly straight edges and wide curves, with none of the fine, closely-spaced motif lines found on the family's patterned variants.

For the pie-slice curve on the shelves, transfer the cut list's dimensions onto the panel and work the jigsaw through slowly and carefully.

Start assembly with the center panel. Unlike the two side panels, it's wider and carries decorative holes for hanging ornaments, and it's cut with a slight 3° closing angle so it seats flush into the corner.

Before going further, screw the center holders that will carry all three shelves onto the panel using 1" (2.5 cm) screws — leaving a 19/32" (15 mm) gap at the top of the slots, equal to the shelf thickness.

The spacing between the three holders is fixed at 1-15/16" (5 cm). Follow the guide's dimension drawing and all three land at the right height, level and aligned. Every dimension and gap here is also marked visually on the guide's own step page — once you have the center panel in hand, you can check where each screw and gap goes straight from the drawing, not the text.

Fasten the shelves from underneath onto the center holders with 2" (5 cm) screws — the three shelves' starting points should line up.

Next, fit the side holders underneath each shelf — 1-3/16" (3 cm) in from the shelf's starting point, again with 2" screws.

As the final step, slide the two side panels over the already-mounted side holders and screw them in from the outside with 1" (2.5 cm) screws. Take care while driving these screws — miss a holder and you'll open an unnecessary hole in the side panel. Once this step is done, the structure stands on its own as a three-panel corner frame. These dimensions are also marked on the guide's own page, right on the part itself.

Once cutting is done, sand every part: 80-120 grit on the edges and rough spots, finishing with 150-220 grit. Since the panel surfaces are left completely plain, a random orbital sander speeds things up noticeably on the broad flat faces.

Edge banding: worth considering if you're leaving the wood natural — covering the plywood's layered edge with thin iron-on birch banding really stands out on a plain panel.

Sanding and painting before assembly, while the parts are still separate, makes the job significantly easier.