Haunted Tree and Tombstone Graveyard Yard Decor Plans

I designed the scene as a graveyard: a large, bare-branched haunted tree in the center, with three tombstones around it. I carved a face into the tree's trunk — deep eye sockets and a wide, jagged-toothed mouth just below them. The branches curl upward and outward, while the roots spread out at the base, anchoring the figure to the ground.

I drew the three tombstones distinct from one another: one is a plain cross with a pointed top, one is a ringed Celtic cross with a bat detail, and the third is a cracked cross tipped to one side. I kept the three at different heights on purpose: lined up side by side, they don't look like they came from the same mold, and the height difference gives the scene a sense of depth. The photo shows one layout I put together — you can set the tree at the center and arrange the tombstones in a different layout based on your own yard's depth or your own taste.

I kept the figures at a scale that reads from a distance in the yard; the values below are given as height × width.

• Haunted tree: 6'10" (209 cm) × 8'8" (264 cm)
• Tombstone (1) — pointed cross: 3'6" (106 cm) × 1'5" (42 cm)
• Tombstone (2) — Celtic cross: 3'7" (110 cm) × 1'10" (56 cm)
• Tombstone (3) — tipped cross: 3'2" (96 cm) × 1'11" (58 cm)

The haunted tree's 8'8" (264 cm) width works out to roughly 8.5 ft (2.6 m) of clearance — in other words, the tree takes up far more room than the tombstones beside it, and stands on its own as the focal point of the yard. When planning the layout, leave room for that spread on both sides and in front; setting the tombstones off to the sides and slightly behind the tree, rather than directly in front of it, gives the scene more depth.

3 SVG, DWG, and DXF Format CNC Files: The three CNC files carry the same content — I prepared them in three formats purely for compatibility with different software. You don't need paid software to open them: LibreCAD (free, open-source) and QCAD (free community edition) both run on Windows and Mac and are lightweight, easy-to-install options. If you want a Windows-only option, Autodesk's own free viewer DWG TrueView is available (it doesn't run natively on Mac). That said, if you're having it CNC-cut, you don't need to open the file yourself — just hand it off to whoever's doing the cutting; you can also ask them for a small scale adjustment if you need one.

1 PDF Format Templates File: A template sized for A4/US Letter for hand-cutting.

1 PDF Format Readme File: All of these steps are also written out in the README file, so you've got it as a reference on hand.

I recommend MDO (Medium Density Overlay) plywood for this — its resin-coated, smooth surface holds paint very well and stands up to weather and scratching; it's genuinely made for jobs like signage and yard decor. If you want to keep the budget tighter, ACX plywood is a solid alternative — its waterproof glue and smooth face are enough for most outdoor projects. I wouldn't recommend marine-grade plywood: it's the most durable option, but it can cost 3-4 times as much as standard plywood — that premium makes sense for boats or anything in constant contact with water, but it's more than a yard ornament needs.

You need 3 panels total to complete this composition. In imperial, that's a 4×8 ft panel at 19/32 in. thickness; in metric, a 1.2×2.4 m panel at 15 mm thickness.

The first panel holds all three tombstones. I also placed 5 pointed stake strips into the leftover space — so you don't need to measure and cut your own ground stakes separately; they come ready-cut in the file.

The second and third panels carry the tree: the tree isn't cut as a single piece, it's cut in two parts and joined together. That's not a design choice, it's a result of the geometry — the tree is 8'8" (264 cm) wide, while a single panel is only 4 ft (122 cm) wide, so it simply doesn't fit as one piece. The joint runs along a vertical line just to the side of the trunk: the edge where the two pieces meet isn't an organic branch outline but a straight-segment cut line, so lining it up is easier than you'd expect. The line falls right where the branches are most densely packed.

Before permanently joining the two halves, lay both pieces flat on the ground and do a dry test-fit: seeing that the branch tips line up and the trunk continues unbroken before you paint is far easier than trying to fix it afterward.

For the plywood stake: the length of your nail or screw matters — it shouldn't exceed the combined thickness of the stake and panel together (1-3/16 in. / roughly 30 mm), or the tip will poke through the front. A 3/4"–1" (19-25mm) exterior-rated stainless screw is a safe choice.

For the telescoping PVC pipe: Home Depot carries Schedule 40 PVC pipe in many diameters from 1/2" to 4". Exactly which two sizes will nest together can vary slightly by brand — I'd recommend physically test-fitting two sizes in the store before buying. Cantex-brand PVC pipe clamps come in matching diameters for fastening the pipe to the panel.

For wall mounting or leaning: you'll need a keyhole plate and a wood spacer to hold the panel off the wall; Home Depot carries ready-made keyhole hardware kits (brands like OOK and Waddell).

I recommend starting with an exterior primer and finishing with exterior paint — most products call for 2 coats. The combined surface of the 3 panels comes to roughly 90-96 sq ft (8.5-9 m²); that generally works out to 1 gallon of primer and 1 gallon of paint. The exact amount depends on the coverage listed on your chosen product's label — worth checking before you buy.

Decor like this usually only spends about a month outdoors during the holiday season, then sits in storage the rest of the year. For that kind of use, a combined exterior "paint + primer in one" product is also a solid option instead of separate coats — it's more economical (one product, usually just a single coat) and still provides enough protection for this short seasonal exposure.

1. Print it — The template package includes a single file that works for both A4 and US Letter paper sizes. It's designed to fit both sizes properly, with no scaling issues. In the print dialog, set the scale to "actual size / 100%" and make sure "fit to page" is NOT selected — if it is, the printer will shrink or stretch the file to fit the paper and every measurement on it will be thrown off. The file is already prepared at its own scale, with margin built in for small differences between paper sizes.
2. Assemble the pages — the template arrives as a multi-page pattern split across A4/US Letter sheets. First, carefully cut along the trim lines at the edge of each page with scissors or a craft knife — these lines are there so the edges line up exactly when the pages are joined, without any overlap. Once the edges are trimmed, follow the letter-number grid printed on the pages to line up the correct sheets, then tape the edges together to form the full-size pattern.
3. Transfer the pattern onto the plywood — two methods:
   • Spray adhesive: a "repositionable" spray like 3M Super 77. Apply a thin, even coat to the back of the paper and press it down without bubbles or creases. After cutting, the paper peels off easily with mineral spirits.
   • Double-sided tape: you can do the same with tape — use a "residue-free, removable" type. You don't need to cover the whole surface, just strips along the edges and inner corners.
4. Cut it — follow the line with a jigsaw using a narrow blade; don't force the saw, and make small relief cuts before sharp corners. Make sure to clamp the plywood securely to your workbench.

Once the cutting is done, sand the surface. Start with 80-120 grit on the edges and any rough spots, then move to 150-220 grit for a smooth, paint-ready finish. A random orbital sander speeds things up on the broad flat areas (the trunk surfaces); the curved edges, branch tips, cross arms, and the gaps in the face's teeth come out cleaner sanded by hand. For 3 panels — depending on how much detail work you want to put in — plan on roughly 3-5 hours; the gaps between the face's teeth and the inner corners of the branches take up most of that time.

If you're using separate primer and paint: apply the primer in thin, even coats — 2 coats is usually enough — then follow with 2-3 thin coats of exterior paint, letting each coat dry before the next. If you went with a combined "paint + primer in one" product instead, a single coat is usually enough; add a second if you notice any uneven coverage. Whichever product you use, pay particular attention to the edges — that's where plywood picks up moisture most easily.

You don't need to prepare a stake separately for this project: five pointed stake strips come ready-cut on the same panel as the tombstones, already nested into the leftover space. If you'd still like extra stakes, you can cut one from your plywood offcuts with one end pointed. Set the flat end against the back of the figure and fasten it with a nail or screw; the length of the nail or screw shouldn't exceed the combined thickness of the two overlapping plywood pieces, or the tip will poke through the front. Once the stake is fastened, drive the pointed end into the ground. If the soil is hard, wetting it beforehand makes this easier.

For a more permanent setup: fasten a PVC pipe to the back of the figure so it runs down toward the ground when the panel is standing — a couple of pipe clamps are enough to secure it. Then drive a second, slightly wider PVC pipe into the ground to create a fixed sleeve. All you need to do at install time is slide the figure's pipe into that sleeve; taking it out at the end of the season is just as easy — the sleeve stays put in the ground, so you're not driving a new stake every year.

If staking into the ground isn't an option, you can mount the figure to a wall or a fence. For the cleanest result: attach a keyhole plate to the back, and add a wood spacer a few centimeters thick underneath it — this holds the figure slightly off the wall, which keeps moisture from building up and, if you want to add lighting behind it later, leaves room for the light to spread. All you do at the wall is slip the screw head into the keyhole slot. If you want something simpler, you can just lean the figure against the wall and weigh down the base slightly.

If you don't have soil to stake into and there's no wall or fence nearby, a weighted sign base is a practical third option — the kind sold for sidewalk signs and event banners. These usually work as a slotted or clamped stand: slide the panel's bottom edge in, then fill the base with sand or water for ballast. Match the base's rated capacity to the panel itself, not just its weight — a tall, flat silhouette catches wind like a sail, and this composition's haunted tree (6'10" / 209 cm tall, 8'8" / 264 cm wide) needs a base built for that scale. The wind-facing surface here doesn't come from height alone: the tree's wide branch spread also catches wind from the side, so it needs a heavier base than a narrower figure of the same height. In an open, wind-exposed spot, I'd still run a couple of thin guy-lines from the panel down to the ground even with a weighted base — the base keeps it from tipping over, the lines keep it from rocking and slowly working the base loose over a season.

If you'd like, you can add an LED strip behind the figures for a nighttime effect too. The spacer you used for wall-mounting comes in handy here — the gap it leaves between the panel and the wall gives the light room to spread out from the edges.

What kind of LED: go with a 12V, outdoor-rated strip with an IP67 waterproof rating — IP65 only handles light rain/splashing (fine for covered spots under an eave), IP67 is the safer choice for full exposure in an open yard. Warm white (3000K) gets closest to that amber glow in the reference photos.

How much you'll need: the tree's curved outline is long, while the tombstones are simple; altogether, you'll need roughly 30-35 meters of strip for all four (usually sold in 5-meter reels, so about 6-7 reels). That's a rough estimate — it depends on how much of the silhouette you want lit.

How to mount it: since these silhouettes have curved, organic outlines, a rigid aluminum channel won't follow the shape — stick the strip directly to the wood using its own adhesive backing instead. For extra hold in outdoor conditions (cold weather weakens adhesive tape over a season), lay down a strip of stronger outdoor-rated double-sided mounting tape (3M VHB or similar) first and press the LED strip onto that, then add a small flexible mounting clip every 15-20 cm along the run for a mechanical backup that doesn't rely on adhesive alone. A thin bead of clear silicone sealant along both edges of the strip adds a further layer of grip and weatherproofing, especially useful right where the strip turns a tight curve.

Power supply: the strip doesn't plug straight into an outlet — you need a transformer (LED driver) that steps 220V down to 12V, and it needs to be outdoor-rated (IP65/IP67) too. You can work out the transformer's wattage by multiplying your total strip length by the watts-per-meter figure printed on the strip's packaging.

Powering it outdoors: plug the transformer into a GFCI-protected, weather-resistant (WR-rated) outdoor outlet, and use an "in-use" cover that stays closed even with something plugged in. If you need an extension cord, choose one rated for outdoor use (UV- and water-resistant).

Will rain or snow be a problem: an IP67-rated strip is safe in rain and snow, but any end you cut is always exposed and breaks the waterproofing — every cut end needs a bead of silicone or a waterproof end cap, or the strip's IP rating doesn't mean anything in practice.

If running a full LED strip system is more than you want to take on, a couple of solar-powered spotlights staked into the ground in front of each figure give a similar uplit look with no wiring, no transformer, and nothing to plug in. The trade-off is real, though: solar panels need several hours of direct sun to charge, so shaded spots under eaves or trees will undercharge, especially given how short winter days already are. Cold weather also cuts battery capacity and runtime — expect noticeably less light on the coldest nights of the season, right when you're most likely to want it. If your display sits somewhere with decent daytime sun, this is genuinely the easier route; if it's mostly shaded or you're somewhere with harsh winters, the wired strip holds up better. Either way, an inexpensive outdoor timer on the wired setup — or just relying on the solar spot's built-in dusk sensor — means you're not walking out to flip a switch every evening.